Radiator hoses & Seatbelt anchors

We modified the coolant connections on the right side because we didn't have enough clearance between he exhaust and the radiator hose.  We also decided to change from standard rubber hoses (which have a 5 year replacement schedule) to silicone hoses that last much longer.  The silicone hoses also have a higher temperature rating which is nice.

Radiator hose connection to water pump

Hose connections to radiator

We also made 4 cables that will be used to anchor the seatbelts.   1/8" stainless cable was slid through a 10" piece of blue polyurethane jacket (1/4" diameter).  The cable ends wrap around AN111 cable bushings, and the ends were then swaged.    Hours: 9

Door Lexan

Work on the two door Lexan pieces started.  There have been several methods to accomplish the door Lexan installation.  After doing research and asking questions on Facebook and WingsForum, we settled on two separate pieces of Lexan and an aluminum strip to cover the seam.  The door frames were laid on the Lexan and a rough shape was drawn leaving about 2" of overhang.  The shape was cut-out.  The Lexan was first attached to the top section along the door hinge. 

Getting ready to drill top tops along Hings

Then the holes were located and drilled down the two side supports to the middle support.

Drilling down the side supports

Top section drilled and cleco'd

A line was precisely drawn down the middle of the middle support.  The Lexan was removed from the door frame and cut along the line.  Ed's hand was the most steady, so he got this job.  Once the cut was made, the edges were cleaned up with files and sandpaper.  Next, the bottom section was positioned.  Due to the curvature of the doors, the bottom Lexan had to be positioned an then excess material had to be removed to follow the upper Lexan piece over the middle door support.  Once the bottom Lexan fit properly the drilling of holes was completed.  TIP:  To locate the door supports without removing the protective material on the Lexan, a bright light was positioned below Lexan allowing the shadow of the door frame to shine through.  You can see this in the very first picture.

Next, a 1/2" x 1/2" x 48" piece of aluminum u-channel was ripped on the bandsaw to leave a 1/2" x 1/8"x 48" piece of aluminum.  The aluminum u-channel was placed on the door and the peak of the middle door support was located.  A pilot hole was drilled in the u-channel at this position.  The remaining holes in the u-channel were located and drilled.  A pilot hole was also drilled at the peak of the door middle support.  The u-channel was cleco'd to the middle door support.  Using the pilot holes in the u-channel as guides,  the remaining holes were drilled into the middle door support working from the peak to each side.  All holes were up-drilled to their final #30" size.

First Door (Left Side) complete

The complete process was repeated for the second door.

Second Door (Right Side) completed and tested

Hours: 20

Panel Modification and Misc

 We ordered copper buss bar material from Aircraft Spruce.  We drilled the holes based on the spacing of the Klixon Circuit Breakers (CB).  We quickly found that the vertical spacing between the two rows of CB's would not work.  The bottom row of CB's were too close the the bottom panel edge and too close the the upper row of CB's causing shorting issues.  There wasn't much space to move things around without a major change.  After some back and forth on the best solution we came up with the new location as shown in the picture.

New CB location

You can see the five plugs installed in the old location.  The ELT had to be moved up by 1/2".  The locate the new holes on both the CB's and ELT, Michael printed some drill guides on his 3D printer.  This worked wonderfully.

Top: ELT Drill Guide
Bottom: CB Drill Guide

With the new location, we now have room to start wiring to the CB's.  Due to the thickness of the Buss Bar material from Aircraft Spruce, new 6-32 screws were ordered.

CB's and Buss Bar trial fit

We were using two worm gear clamps to temporarily attach the oil tank in the engine bay.  We finally ordered the correct parts, installed them and safety wired them.

Oil tank straps installed

The position and installation details for the  parking brake valve was finalized. A spacer had to be installed on the firewall to make the Bowden cable function more precisely.

Parking Brake Valve Installation

Hours: 16

Fuel and Oil hoses, Fusebox, Misc

The hoses to the differential pressure sensor were were connected and torqued.  There is a 4An line running to a T-fitting near the fuel filter, and a 3AN line runs from the back of the sensor to the airbox.

Differential Pressure Sensor on firewall

All fuel fittings from the firewall pass-thru to the engine were torqued and marked with torque seal.

Fuel and fuel filter lines torqued

The fuse box, which is attached to the firewall, was rotated 180 degrees so that the connectors are now pointed down.  The manual does not specifically call out an orientation, but this is the placement that most builders are using.  This orientation should help prevent any moisture from seeping into the enclosure through the connector openings.

Many other hoses forward the firewall were tightened and torqued to the appropriate value, then marked with orange torque seal. This included all other fuel lines, oil lines, and an air line running from the differential pressure sensor to the airbox.  A few silicone  isolation pads were attached at points where there was any possibility of rubbing. Also a few wire-ties were added to keep hoses and cables in place. 

3AN line to airbox torqued

Oil lines torqued to the oil cooler. Red protective pad attached to oil line.  

Oil lines running to thermostat torqued and marked

Since our firewall is titanium, the general recommendation is to use stainless steel fasteners instead of cadmium-plated steel in order to prevent potential galvanic corrosion.  Because of this, we replaced several of the fasteners on the firewall with stainless steel parts.  The most difficult replacement was a couple of larger spacer washers at the bottom of the firewall which were very tight, but we got 'er done.

Hours: 17

Several firewall fasteners replaced with stainless steel parts

Washers between firewall and frame replaced