Butt Rib, Control pulleys, etc

We made some tweaks around the left butt rib because it didn't line up cleanly with the root web, causing slight interference whenever we would open or close the wing.  To fix this, we sanded back the front edge of the butt rib slightly (area adjacent to the front spar), and also sanded a sliver of material on both the butt ribcap and root ribcap so that that we had an even spacing between the two.  After making the mods, the issue with interference was fixed.

Top of butt rib (right) and root rib(left) shown

We also added four nutplates to one of the fabric plates on the right wing which will allow us to (later) easily add a fairing at the exit point where the cable runs to the rudder. 

four nutplates installed with flush rivets

Lastly, we installed eight control pulleys inside the fuselage.  These pulleys are for the cables that will ultimately run from the controls to the rudder and ailerons.   We either used up all the washers we had for AN4 bolts, or misplaced them, so will have to order a bunch more.   Hours 2.0

Double pulleys installed, one for ailerons and one for flaps

Left Wing Butt Rib

Did the final placement of the left wing butt rib.  Had to do some tweaking to get the spacing corrected to the 1/16" called out in the builder's manual. Once aligned, two 1/8" holes were drilled, one in each location to fix the root rib in place.  Cleco's were placed in the holes for riveting at a later time.  Hours: 1

Butt Rib in Place

Left Wing Top Aileron Fabric Plate

Decided to add four nut/anchor plates to the Top Aileron Fabric Plate.  The plan is to add 3D Printed cable fairings to the reduce cable drag.  Got to use a new tool, the Anchor Nut Drill Jig I got off Ebay.  It worked wonderfully and made for a nice quick installation.  After drilling the holes, the anchor nuts were riveted in place using a solid rivet squeezer.  Hours: 0.5

Anchor Nuts added on Top Aileron Fabric Plate

Right Root Rib Work

With the weather being rather nice, we decided to take advantage of it and unfold the right wing out the garage door.  With the wing unfolded we were able to work on the right wing root rib.  Like the previous day on the left root rib, we positioned the root rib on the wing with 1/16" spacers.  We found an excess of epoxy on wing would not allow a clean fit, so we had to do a little cleanup with a Dremel and file.  Once that was taken care of, we marked and cut the T-Lugs to size.  The holes were then drilled and cleco'd .  Hours: 2

Ed filing excess epoxy

Left Root Rib Work

Started work on installing root rib on the left (pilot) side of the fuselage.  The wings have to be swung back a few times and we had to re-arrange things in the garage to accomplish this.  Root rib fixing lugs (T-shaped pins, W-0290)  had to be cut down to a shorter length and the powder coat paint removed for fitting into the mating bushings on the fuselage.  The root rib was aligned with the wing end rib with a 1/16" gap between the two.  We used four pieces of 0.063" Aluminum shims for the spacing.  Once everything was aligned and spaced correctly, four holes were drilled through the top "T" into the butt rib and cleco'd in place.  Hours; 2.5

Overview of Butt Rib Cleco's in palce

Rear T-Pin Cleco'd to Butt Rib

Front T-Pin Cleco'd in Place

Leading Edge Cuff Template

After hearing great reports from Steve Henry of Wild West Aircraft, we decided to purchase a set of wing leading edge cuffs.  We were provided a cardboard template for placement assistance.  To provide a little more durability we transferred the template to double thick plywood and cut to shape.  Hours: 1

Here you can see the Leading Edge Cuff

Leading Edge Cuff Placement Template

Right Wing Fabric Plates

As stated in the previous blog entry, when we originally did the right wing fabric plates, we did not install the anchor nut plates.  Tonight we installed six nut plates with solid rivets and two nut plates with pulled rivets.  The pulled rivets were used because we could not get access to the back of the rivets with a rivet hand squeezer.  Hours: 1

Anchor Nut plates Installed on 1 of 2 Fabric Backing Plate

Right Wing drains, etc

We drilled 1/4 inch drain holes in each bay of the right wing, similar to what we had already done on the left wing.  We also drilled holes in two of the fabric backing plates on the left wing for installation of nut plates.  Again, this is something we had done on the left wing, and needed to duplicate on the right wing.  The rivet holes were either dimpled or countersunk (depending on the location) because we'll be using flush-mounted rivets.  Hours: 1.5

Momentous Occasion

Today was a great day!  We finally mounted the wings on the airplane.  We struggled a bit because the wing positioning needs to be pretty close to get the bolt holes to line up correctly, but we managed.  Here's a shot of the two proud owners under the right wing.  From the shot, you might assume it would be impossible to close the garage door, and you would be wrong.  We can pull a pin at the front spar and then rotate the wing back until it tucks in next to the fuselage.  Then the garage door can indeed be closed.

The left wing was attached next, but didn't get a photo of that so we will show it in later pictures.  This thing barely fits in the garage, but it does fit.  There is barely enough room, but we can have the left wing extended as long as the right one is folded back.  Our clearance between the wings and the walls is mere inches, but it fits!   Time spent: 3.5 hours  

Right wing attached

Varnish butt rib

Did a little more varnishing today, this time on two butt ribs that have not been installed yet.  We avoided putting varnish on the spots that will be epoxied later.  Also put a varnish coat on the right wing root rib by the gas tank.  We were supporting the wing at that location previously, so couldn't varnish it earlier.  Hours 1.0

Epoxy Varnish Right Wing, etc

We applied two coats of epoxy varnish this weekend to the right wing, and also applied a coat to a few areas on the flaps and ailerons that were previously missed.  The varnish has a very strong odor, so we wore masks when applying it.  Per the instructions, we varnished all the wood surfaces, and also coated the spars, and leading/trailing edge surfaces that will not be covered directly with fabric.  Hours: 4.0

Right wing varnished, and Michael adding some to a flap

More Varnish Prep Work

The wing was flipped over and more light sanding/buffing was done to the exposed aluminum.  Some additional filler work was done on the last rib where nutplate rivets were installed. Hours: 1

Varnish Prep

After allowing the epoxy to dry on the balsa wood fillers on the flap and aileron brackets a light sanding was done to finish them off.  We started lightly sanding all exposed aluminum in preparation for the epoxy varnish  that will coat all parts of the inner wing for corrosion protection.  Hours: 1

Right tank filler, and other misc work

Added and sanded 3 light coats of lightweight filler to smooth joints around the right wing's fiberglass tank.  We also added small pieces of balsa wood to fill in the gap between the metal plates that make up the aileron and flap hinges. 

Lastly, we removed the silicon plugs that were temporarily put in place to keep filler out of the holes int he right wingtip nutplates.  Hours: 4.0

Filler added at the edges of the fuel tank in the wing

Small piece of balsa added at hinges

Wingtip and Fabric Backing Plate

Hysol Epoxy was added around the nutplates on Rib #9 that will hold the wingtip onto the wing.  Silicone plugs were pulled through the nutplates to prevent epoxy from fouling the threads.

Some final sanding of filler on the strut attach bracket fabric backing plate was also done.

Hours: 1

Epoxy added to Rib.  Notice Orange Silicone plugs

Fabric Backing Plate Filler Work