Wing Tip Brace Installation

The two Wing tip braces were clamped into place and the mounting holes were drilled.  All the holes were deburred and the mating surfaces of the brace tubes, spars and wood ribs were cleaned and sanded.  Hysol structural epoxy was applied at the mating surfaces and the two parts were riveted in place on the left wing. Hours: 2

Two Brace Tubes installed

Zoomed out View of Braces

Wing tip brace fabrication

We fabricated 4 aluminum pieces that will be used as braces for the wing tips.  These were constructed from aluminum tubing (1/2 x 0.035") by measuring and cutting the tubing, flattening the ends in a vice, and then bending the ends to 45 degrees.  All parts were also deburred. Two pieces (of different lengths) are needed for each wing, and we built two sets so that we would have enough for both wings.  Hours: 2.0

Flattening the end of the brace

Bending the end to approx. 45 degrees

Drag Tube Gussets

Today the drag tube gussets were installed in the left wing.  The mating surfaces were first sanded remove oxidation and roughen the surface.  The surfaces were then wiped down with acetone to remove residue and any remaining oxidation.  Hysol adhesive was applied to the edges of the gussets, at they were secured in place.  An additional fillet of adhesive along the drag tube and spar joints was applied.  After the epoxy had time to setup a little, the fillets were smoothed with a wet finger for a nice appearance.  Hours: 1.5

Michael smoothing the Hysol Fillets

Fillet at station 6 complete

Starting Wings

We are now cleaning and rearranging the garage to start work on the Wings.  We've been storing the wings in our shed and today we removed the left side wing and moved it into our heated garage so that we can start work on it.  Hours: 1.5

Ed standing between the Fuselage and Wing for Scale

Flap Fabric Backing Plates Installed

The fabric backing plates were epoxied and riveted in place.  After allowing the epoxy 24 hours to cure lightweight filler was used to smooth the transition from the backing plate to the leading edge and ribs.  This completes the pre-fabric work on the flaps.  Hours: 3

Fabric backing plate near flap control horn

Happy builders with two completed flaps

Flap varnish

Applied epoxy varnish (mix used was 1 part varnish, 1 part catalyst, and 3/4 part reducer) to the wood surfaces of the flaps. We then waited for them to dry about 30-40 minutes, and applied a 2nd coat of varnish.  Hours=1.5

Fabric backing plate work for flaps

We measured and positioned the fabric backing plates on the flaps, then drilled the holes for the attaching rivets.  Next we removed these plates, countersunk the holes on one side (since we will be using countersunk-rivets), and deburred the parts.  Hours: 1.5

Flap Pre-Fabric Work

For the flaps, we decided to switch jobs.  Ed worked on creating the aluminum fabric backing plates.  They were created based on templates in the builders manual.  A total of six backing plates were made.  Mike located and drilled the flap ribs for the fabric rivets. Three holes on the top of each rib and three on the bottom of each rib.  Hours: 3

Ed fabricating Backing Plates

Mike Drilling Flap Ribs

Three Holes per Rib

Aileron fabric backing plates

Permanently attached aluminum fabric backing plates to the ailerons by applying a thin layer of Hysol adhesive, and riveting in place. The next day, after the epoxy had cured, we applied lightweight 2-part filler to smooth the transitions between the fabric backing plates and the surfaces beneath them.  Hours: 3.0

Aileron Wood Preperation

The wood ribs of the two Ailerons were coated with SuperFlite Epoxy Varnish.  Two coats were applied to all exposed wood surfaces.  Hours: 2.5

Fabric backing plates

Construction of the aileron fabric backing plates was completed.  Some minor trimming will still be required on two of them to match them up with the edge of the ailerons.  The fabric backing plates were drilled and temporarily installed (with Clecos) to the ailerons.  Hours: 1.5

Aluminum fabric backing plate temporarily installed

More Aileron Pre-Fabric Work

Two more Fabric backer plates were fabricated.  These two go near the aileron control horn.
Hours:1

Two Aileron Fabric Backer plates

Aileron Pre-Fabric Work

Today Ed and I decided to tackle different parts of the pre-fabric work on the ailerons.  Ed located and drilled the holes for the fabric rivets on the ailerons.

Holes drilled in Rib capstrips on the Ailerons

I worked on the fabric backer plates.  Four backer plates were marked, drilled and cut to match the templates in the manual for the aileron hinges. Hours: 2.5

Four Aileron Hinge Fabric Backer Plates

Flap and Aileron: more filler work

Applied more lightweight filler on the flaps and ailerons, then sanded it down to smooth out the transitions as well as to fill in some defects (voids) that were in the fiberglass leading edge pieces.  We finished this filler work on all 4 pieces (2 flaps and 2 ailerons).  Hours: 5

Filler (bluish-green ares) applied

After sanding: nice transitions between ribs and the edges

PFD (Plane Fun Days) Fly-In in Brasstown

This past weekend, we visited our friends in Brasstown, NC for their annual Just Aircraft Fly-in.  Saw a lot of great planes (Highlanders and Superstols) and got the chance to take a ride, too, during one of the games.  Got the chance to see the balloon pop contest, and the limbo contest.  More events were held the next day (Sunday), but we headed back to Raleigh Sunday morning so missed out on those.  At night, they even had some catered BBQ and a band for entertainment.  Big thanks to Billy and all the rest that helped put on this event!

Plane Fun Days Fly-in @ Brasstown, NC

Michael (in right seat) returning from a flight

Flying under the ribbon for the Limbo contest

Ed (in right seat) after Balloon Popping Event

Flaps with filler added

Applied lightweight 2-part filler (a 3M product that is similar to Bondo but lighter) to fill in some defects (voids) in the leading edge of the right and left flaps.  Also added some filler to smooth the transition on the flaps between the ribs & leading edge, and between the ribs & trailing edge.  Excess filler has not been sanded yet.  Hours: 2.0

Lightweight filler added to left flap

Epoxy Touch-up

A small batch of the Hysol epoxy was mixed up and applied to a few areas on the flaps and ailerons that had come loose during the cutting of the leading edge fiberglass.  Once it started to setup the areas were smoothed out for a better appearance. Hours: 1

Aileron/Flap Work

We completed cutting the slots in the leading edge of the two remaining control surfaces.  We also noticed a few places that will need some epoxy touch-up between the false rib and fiberglass leading edge. Hours: 1

Aileron and Flap Work

We sanded the wood cap strips on each of the ailerons and flaps so that there is a "nice" transition between the cap strips and the fiberglass leading edge.  We used various methods to get the "nice" transition, sanding blocks, orbital sander, and Dremel multi-tool.  Once we had the transition correct we started working on opening the area around the hinges and control attach points.  We cut most of the material away using the Dremel multi-tool and then finished using files.  We got 3 of the 4 parts completed before stopping. Hours: 3

Ed sanding the Cap Stip with the Dremel Multi-Tool

Bottom of Flap with Fiberglass Removed from Control Hinge

Top of Flap with Fiberglass Removed from Mounting Hinge

Attaching Flap and Aileron Leading Edges

Leading edge epoxied in place, and held temporarily with tape

Using Hysol epoxy, we attached the remaining false ribs to the right flap.

Then, we cleaned and prepped the aluminum aileron and flap spars, mixed up some more epoxy, and glued all of 4 of the leading edges to their respective flap or aileron (both right and left sides).  There are 6 primary ribs, and 14 false ribs for each piece, so a total of 20 epoxy attach points for each aileron and flap.  Once the epoxy had cured for about 30 minutes, it was smoothed to make nice filets.  Hours: 3.0

More work on leading edge for right aileron & flap

We continued working on the leading edge for the right aileron and flap (similar to what we've already done on the the same parts for the left side).  We filed a few false ribs so that they would fit around the hinges and bell-crank, prepped the fiberglass surface for gluing, and then epoxied 14 false ribs into the leading edge of the right aileron.  After the epoxy had set for about an hour, we smoothed the glue fillets.  We also prepped the right flap for the same procedure, but will epoxy the false ribs into that flap another day.  Hours: 2.5

Right Aileron and Flap False Rib Locations

We marked the location of the false ribs, first on the right flap and then on the right aileron.  This went a lot quick since we had the locations with dimensions written down from the left flap and aileron. Hours: 1.0

Ed Marking Location of Aileron False Ribs

Right aileron and flaps (leading edge) Continued

Ed and I did the final fitting of last leading edge fiberglass piece.  A little sanding here and a little sanding there.  Hours: 1

Right aileron and flaps (leading edge)

After a brief hiatus for summer vacations, plus trying to get other stuff done around the house, we finally got back to working on the ailerons and flaps.  Previously, we had worked on the fiberglass leading edge for the left-side aileron and flaps.  Now we shifted to the same tasks, but on the right-side aileron and flaps.

This is messy work because we are carefully cutting, trimming, and sanding fiberglass.  The picture shows Michael test-fitting the fiberglass leading edge piece onto the aileron, and you can see that gloves and a breathing filter are needed to keep all the fine fiberglass dust from becoming an irritant.   The trimming and fitting takes a bit of time because we have to be careful so that it fits nicely at each rib, and don't want to mess up and trim off too much.  Hours: 2.5

Michael test fitting the fiberglass leading edge onto the aileron

False ribs in leading edge of left flap

Glued false ribs into the left flap leading edge with Hysol epoxy.  The false ribs were secured in place with masking tape, which basically clamped the fiberglass leading edge over the wood ribs.   The Hysol was worked and smoothed to make nice fillets at the base of the ribs after drying about 30 minutes.  Hours: 2.0

Wooden false rib taped and glued

Left Flap Leading Edge

The left flap's fiberglass leading edge was cut to length.  The false rib locations were located using the same methodology as the aileron.  Hours: 1

Left flap & aileron leading edge

Carefully positioned and attached false ribs to the leading edge of the left aileron with Hysol epoxy.  Also began trimming the fiberglass piece for the left flap.  Hours: 2.0

Left Aileron False Nose Ribs

After consulting the Just Aircraft Wings Forum I found a posting that was perfect and even included a drawings of the placement of the false nose ribs.  This was tremendously helpful.  This was discussed in 2011....why oh why hasn't the builder's manual been updated?   The locations were marked on on the leading edge fiberglass and the false ribs were temporarily fit.  Two of the ribs are going to require some custom fitting at the spar due to interference with the hinge brackets.  Hours: 1

False Nose Ribs Locations Marked

Aileron False Nose Ribs

The manual gives the location of the false nose ribs.  But to be honest, it is extremely lacking and confusing.  We were given 54 total false ribs which equates to 14 per Aileron/Flap.  After locating two false ribs around each hinge point (x6) the remaining 8 false ribs were located based on feedback from other builders. Hours: 1

Aileron leading edge prep

Trimmed and fit the fiberglass leading edge for the left aileron.  Picture below shows some sanding that was done to the fiberglass piece to fit it precisely to the aileron.  The ends were also cut to length and sanded so that they match the ends of the aileron.  Hours: 2.5

Michael is sanding the fiberglass leading edge

Aileron and Flap Hinges

The aileron and flap surfaces were slightly abraded and cleaned at the points where the hinges and bell cranks attached.   A layer of Hysol epoxy was then applied to the hinges and bell cranks, and these were then riveted using CCP44 rivets to the flaps and ailerons.  This gets a little messy with excess epoxy squeezing out from under the parts during riveting.  A total of 8 hinges (2 on each aileron and flap), and a total of 4 bellcranks (1 in the middle of each aileron and flap) were attached.  Excess adhesive was wiped away after riveting.  Hours: 2.5

Bellcrank Attached

Hinge Attached

Left Flap with 2 hinges and bellcrank attached

Aileron Flap Work

We continued work on the remaining aileron and flaps by precisely locating (9.5" from trailing edge to hinge point for ailerons and 10" for the flaps) the two hinges and middle bellcrank on the right aileron and both flaps They were clamped in place using worm hose clamps and drilled for rivets. The parts were temporarily cleco'd until the other aileron and flaps are complete  The holes on all four parts were deburred. Hours: 2.5

Aileron Hinge/BellCrank Attachment

After a brief hiatus on building we finally got back out in the garage on our build.  We found we still needed to up-drill and ream the the hinge brackets to 5/16".  After completing that task, we precisely located (9.5" from trailing edge to hinge point) the two hinges and middle bellcrank on the left aileron.  They were clamped in place using worm hose clamps and drilled for rivets.  The parts were temporarily cleco'd until the other aileron and flaps are complete.  Hours: 2

Center Bellcrank

Outer Hinge

Left Aileron with Hinges and Bellcrank Cleco'd

Attended Superflite workshop

Michael and I attended a workshop on aircraft fabric and painting using the Superflite system. The 2 day workshop was held in Brasstown, NC.  Learned a lot and we were very happy with how these test parts (gear legs) turned out in the end. Hours: 12

Wings in Shed

Time to put the wings back in storage until needed again a little later.   It was either that, or build a larger garage.    Instead of returning the wings to the airport for storage, we decided to hang them up in the shed for easier (and quicker) retrieval.  We used some black strapping to tie them up in the rafters, as shown in the pics.  Hours: 2.5

Wings hung up in the shed

Black strap under the fuel tank on one end of a wing

Aileron and Flap Hinge Positions

With the wings now safely located in our garage we used them to locate the position of the hinges and bellcranks on the Ailerons and flaps.  The location of wing ribs 1,2,4,5, 7, and 9 were used to locate the hinge and bellcranks.  Wood strips were clamped to the wing top and the Aileron and Flap were placed in their correct position.  A 1/4" spacer was placed between the aileron and flap to maintain the correct spacing. The aileron/flap pair was then centered on the wing with equal overhang on both ends.  Once centered, the location of ribs 1,2,4,5,7 and 9 were transferred to the aileron/flap spars. Hours: 2

Wing Transport

We were at the point where we needed to have access to the wings to continue.  The wings were being stored at the airport, so we carefully loaded them up and secured them in the trailer (each wing is held in a sling, and the frame is screwed down to the base of the trailer).  The wings were towed back home and are now in the garage.  So the garage just got even smaller.  Hours: 2

Two wings successfully made the trip home

Aileron & Flaps: Hinges and Bellcrank prep

Spent a few hours preparing hinges and bellcranks for attachment to the ailerons and flaps.  This included careful locating, marking, drilling, and deburring a plethora of holes in these parts for the rivets.  There are 5 holes in each hinge, and 10 in each bellcrank.  With all the hinges (8 total) and bellcranks (4 total), this came out to a grand total of 80 holes.  Each hole was upsized to 1/8 inch per the manual.  We also reamed out a 5/16" hole in the bellcranks for a brass bushing insert, and cleaned out the powder-coat paint from the inside mating surface of the hinges and bellcranks.  Hours: 3.5

Michael is reaming a hole for a brass bushing

4 bellcranks and 2 hinges prepared and ready to go

Final Aileron/Flap Tailing Edge Installation

The inside of the aluminum trailing edge was sanded with 100 grit emory cloth to allow a good surface for the Hysol epoxy to attach.  Only the area around the attach point was sanded.  Then, all the surfaces were wiped down with Acetone for a final cleaning.

The two part Hysol epoxy was mixed and applied to the trailing edge of the rib cap strips.  The trailing edge aluminum was re-applied and flush rivets were pulled. 

Epoxy applied and attaching trailing edge

Trailing edge riveted and epoxied in place

The epoxy was allowed to cure for about 30 minutes and then using a finger dipped in water it was smoothed for a nice clean finish.  Hours: 2.5

Smoothed Hysol Epoxy

Flap Trailing Edge

The aluminum trailing edge for the last flap (left flap) was drilled and dimpled.  The wood cap strip on the flap was also countersunk like the other ailerons and flaps.  Hours: 0.5

Aileron and Flap Trailing Edge

Continued the work on the Ailerons, but also started working on the Flaps which are similar in the build process. The trailing edge aluminum was cut to length and the correct placement in relation to the spar was made. The holes were drilled through the aluminum and into the cap strip as indicated in the builder's manual on the remaining aileron and one of the flaps. The holes were staggered to avoid interference issues with the rivets. Once drilled, holes were deburred and the aluminum was dimpled with the custom die, and the wood cap strip was countersunk using the depth guide.  There remains one flap to be done.  Hours: 1.5

Photo-op

We rolled out our fuselage for some nice outdoor photos.

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